VEILED MEANING: Fashioning Jewish Dress

From the Collection of The Israel Museum, Jerusalem



Country: USA
City: New York
Museum/Gallery: Jewish Museum


November 3, 2017 – March 18, 2018.   
The Jewish Museum, New York  

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Woman’s coat, Bukhara, Uzbekistan, late 19th century. Brocaded silk, lining: silk and cotton, ikat-dyed. 
B64.12.4226. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem. Photo by Mauro Magliani: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem

The Israel Museum’s world-renowned collection of Jewish costumes
showcases over 100 articles of clothing from the eighteenth to twentieth centuries 
arranged as complete ensembles or shown as stand-alone items.

A sumptuous array of apparel from over 20 countries on four continents
offers an exceptional opportunity to view many facets of Jewish identity
and culture through rarely seen garments.

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Prayer shawl
(tallit)

Germany
18th century

Damask and brocade silk, gilt metal-cord lace. 
Gift of Jakob Michael, New York, in memory of his wife, Erna Sondheimer-Michael, B68.0178

The Israel Museum, Jerusalem.
Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The exhibition illuminates the story of how diverse global cultures
have thrived, interacted, and inspired each other for centuries

The extraordinary range of textile designs and clothing in Jewish communities from Afghanistan, Algeria, Denmark, Egypt, Ethiopia, Germany, Georgia, Greece, India, Iran, Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, Israel, Italy, Libya, Morocco, Poland, Romania, Tunisia, Turkey, the United States, Uzbekistan, and Yemen are represented.

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Bridal Jacket, Isfahan, Iran, early 20th century. Silk velvet, silver tinsel embroidery. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B92.0433. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani.

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Women’s outfit. Mashhad, Iran
, early 20th century. Silk, silk velvet and cotton satin, gilt metal cord embroidery. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Purchased through the gift of Bruce Kovner, New York, B78.0749, B95.0735, B95.0737-0738. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

Color, texture, function, artistry, and craftsmanship.
The exhibition also offers an incisive and compelling examination
of diversity
and migration through the lens of fashion.

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Man’s coat

Georgia
early 20th century

Silk, gilt ribbons, silver niello, gunpowder cases. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Gift of Beckie Molho, Herzliya. 69.0460. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wedding Sari
Bene Israel Community,

India
mid-20th century

Brocaded silk, silver and silk thread, B84.0629. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem. Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

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Women’s festive
coat dress and chemise

Baghdadi Jews,
Calcutta, India 
late 19th century

Dress: brocaded silk, gilt metal threads, lace and couched cords, braided and metal buttons; chemise: cotton, patchwork. 
Gift of Ramah Yehuda, London; Gift of Anne Menasseh, London, B68.0582-3, B85.0006. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem. Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

  
  The exhibition will focus on how clothes balance the personal
with the social, how dress traditions distinguish different
Jewish communities, and how they portray Jewish and secular affiliations within a larger societal context.

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Women’s

under-trousers
(5 items)

Uzbekistan 
early 20th century

Silk, plangi and ikat dyed, printed cotton. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B64.12.4211, B66.07.1071, B66.12.1519, B67.0487, B14.0007
Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

 

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Groom’s outfit
with amuletic symbols

Zakho,
Iraqi Kurdistan 
early 20th century

Goat hair, brocaded weave, floss silk embroidery; shirt: cotton; sash: artificial silk. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Gift of Itzhak and Zipporah Nahum, Menuha, purchased through the gift of Dr. Willy and Charlotte Reber, Valbella, Switzerland, B80.996, B78.0201, B76.0468. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 


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Jewish women’s wrap

(izar) and face veil

Baghdad, Iraq
late 19th – early 20th century,

Silk, gilt metal thread, horsehair weave. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Gift of Helene Simon and Hanina Shasha, New York, in memory of their mother Louise Zilka née Bashi; Gift of Mazli Nawi, Ramat Gan, B79.0241, B58.0697. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Woman’s

festive attire

Tripoli, Libya
early-mid 20th century

Wrap: artificial silk; blouse: chiffon silk; sash: silk. ift of Louise Djerbi, Jerusalem, in memory of Luly Raccah; Gift of Lillo Arbib, Bat Yam, in memory of his mother Ida Arbib née Nahum; Gift of the Moshav Uzah Synagogue, B83.0816, B79.206, B94.0096. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem. Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Women’s outfit

Tlemcen, Algeria 
early 20th century

Silk satin, cotton lace, silk ribbons; blouse: embroidered tulle. The Zeyde Schulmann Collection in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B36.10.2330, B63.10.2412. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Women’s outfit 
(detail) Tlemcen, Algeria  early 20th century. Silk satin, cotton lace, silk ribbons; blouse: embroidered tulle. The Zeyde Schulmann Collection in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B36.10.2330, B63.10.2412. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

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Woman’s outfit

Alexandria (?) 
Egypt, 1920s

Cotton tulle, silver tinsel embroidery. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Purchased through the gift of Dr. Willy and Charlotte Reber, Valbella, Switzerland, B77.0114. 
Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Elie Posner

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Girl’s amuletic dress, 
Sana’a, Yemen 1930s. Cotton, indigo dyed, cotton thread embroidery, kauri shells. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, O.S B79.0014. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

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Boy’s blouse
for a symbolic “children’s wedding”. Tafilalet, Morocco mid-20th century. Cotton, cotton-thread embroidery. The Zeyde Schulmann Collection in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B63.10.2680. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

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Groom’s outfit
: coat worn over shrouds. Tetuan, Morocco, c. 1950. Coat: felted wool, silk cord embroidery; shrouds: cotton and linen, cotton-cord embroidery. The Zeyde Schulmann Collection in The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, B63.10.2405, B64.3992. Photograph © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

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Woman’s wrap
(chader) and face veil

Afghanistan,

mid-20th century

Cotton, netted silk-thread embroidery
Purchased through the gift of Dr. Willy and Charlotte Reber, Switzerland, B77.0466, B71.0526. 
The Israel Museum, Jerusalem Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

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Hasidic Rebbe’s

Sabbath Coat

Jerusalem
contemporary

Silk and synthetic thread, appliqué synthetic velvet bands; belt: compound weave. Gift of Josef Grunwald, Ashdod, B09.1523, B09.1540. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem Photo: © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, photograph by Mauro Magliani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Organizer:
Veiled Meanings: Fashioning Jewish Dress, from the Collection of The Israel Museum, Jerusalem is organized by The Israel Museum, Jerusalem.
The Israel Museum’s curatorial team includes Curator in Charge, Daisy Raccah-Djivre; Exhibition Curator, Efrat Assaf-Shapira; and Scientific Advisors, No’am Bar’am Ben-Yossef and Esther Juhasz. Claudia Nahson, Morris & Eva Feld Curator at the Jewish Museum, is Overseeing Curator for the New York presentation. The exhibition has been designed by Leslie Gill Architect.

Sponsors:
The Coby Foundation, Ltd., Barbara and Richard Lane, the Peter Jay Sharp Exhibition Fund, the Joan Rosenbaum Exhibition Fund, and the Alfred J. Grunebaum & Ruth Grunebaum Sondheimer Memorial Fund.

 

About the Jewish Museum
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Thursday, 11am to 8pm – Friday, 11am to 4pm.

Located on Museum Mile at Fifth Avenue, the Jewish Museum is one of the world’s preeminent institutions devoted to exploring art and Jewish culture from ancient to contemporary, offering intellectually engaging, educational, and provocative exhibitions and programs for people of all ages and backgrounds.

The Museum was established in 1904, when Judge Mayer Sulzberger donated 26 ceremonial objects to The Jewish Theological Seminary as the core of a museum collection. Today, the Museum maintains a collection of over 30,000 works of art, artifacts, and broadcast media reflecting global Jewish identity, and presents a diverse schedule of internationally acclaimed temporary exhibitions.

Visitors can now also enjoy Russ & Daughters at the Jewish Museum, a kosher sit-down restaurant and take-out appetizing counter on the Museum’s lower level.